Waveshare 4 inch hdmi lcd

Looking to spend no more than $60,000 USD. Replacing a 2018 Subaru Outback that is beginning to give me concerns with the CVT. I am wondering what this community would suggest. Maybe I am overlooking an option. The Outback is still a good value in my opinion, I just loathe the CVT and wish it had more power.

1. Prefer new or almost new with warranty
2. Must be 4X4 or AWD
3. This vehicle will be used for multiple trips throughout the winter for skiing
4. Must comfortably seat three adults and have room for a dog in the back
5. Roof rack/rails are a must
6. Would consider a truck
7. The vehicle will be used for trips to the trailhead for hiking in the mountains and to the put-in and take out for whitewater kayaking
8. No rock crawling or off-roading. The most extreme would be forest access roads that an Outback can handle today. Needs 7-8 inches or more of ground clearance
9. I would prefer something with more power than a 3.6 Outback
10. I would prefer a non-CVT transmission
11. 25 mpg or more would be nice, but not a deal-breaker

Hi, I have some files encoded in x265 with HDR10. Output using the default color space at 60 (or 59.xx) plays via Plex but not with correct color resolution (washed out SDR). Moving the refresh rate down to 24Hz, everything seems fine. The file demands a bit rate of 16 Gbps.
Would this be a limitation of the device or the cables? The cable indicates "High Speed". It seems these were intended for use only with HDMI 1.4 (max 10.2 Gbps). Would this be the issue before ordering some new cables with the "Premium High Speed" or even the newest cables designed to maximize bandwidth of the HDMI 2.1 spec?

Apparently Amex thinks my wife is now my employee. For some reason they attached her AU Green Card to a business card letter. The Amex rep had no idea why this happened and now my wife keeps calling me “boss”.

Good morning!
My wife and I recently hired a licensed GC to do the following in our backyard: -Extend existing 8x8 patio concrete to ends of fence lines(stone walls) -Lay down artificial grass -Construct pergola
We’ve had some concerns about the concrete as it was just laid last week. They laid the concrete over the existing concrete and extended. There are some shrinkage cracks here and there, which I learned are inevitable. However, we have two specifically that go across the entire length of the concrete(from patio door to start of turf ~8’). Both cracks are fairly thin. I’m extremely ignorant to construction which is why I hired out for this. Are the long shrinkage cracks expected and unavoidable, or is this something I should bring to the GC’s attention?
Additionally, there is about 3-4 inches of concrete on our external wall and a mess of our gate. Is this unavoidable and expected?
Thank you in advance!

So, I might've gotten a little over my head with the pattern I chose. I am making a dress using an acrylic-cotton blend.
When I made my swatch, I had measured my row gauge and it was 29 rows per 4 inches after blocking.
I have now started the piece itself and I'm measuring 9 rows per inch (so 36 per 4 inches!). I am not sure if my gauge changed or that the yarn did grow when I blocked it.
All things considered, should I work based on my math and hope it'll stretch by itself out when I block it. Or, should I work more rows and measure the dress as I go?
I'm afraid it'll either be too small or too big 😔

Upstairs in the master bedroom CLOSET of my home was a boarded up door that leads out to a balcony. I purchased the home from my landlords after they finished renovating it, and I'm not sure if THEY boarded up the door or if the owners before them did, but the insurance company at some point told the owner that they could either install a railing on the balcony or they could board up the door so it's inaccessible. They chose to board it up. This weekend was beautiful and I got tired of climbing out the window to use my balcony, so I kicked out the boarded up door. I put up a magnetic screen mesh because the weather was going to be beautiful all weekend, and I went to menards to look at getting a new door, only to find out that the hole I kicked open is shorter than 80", and narrower than 36". I cannot heighten the opening because the corner of the door would hit the roof which is maybe 3" above the frame.
The employee at menards said we could order a custom fit door, but it would be a far cry from the $300 door I had picked out. More like $1200 for a door with a tiny window. Removing the window would bring it down to $900 for a plain aluminum door with no decoration. He said the alternate option is to buy the door I originally wanted with the nice big window and cut it down to size. The problem there would be that the doorknob would then be at an awkward height, so we would still need to order a custom door with either no doorknob holes drilled, or one where the doorknob holes are pre drilled a few inches higher than normal.
I will say I DON'T regret kicking open that door, I love the amount of light it's letting into the closet, and its nice to not have to climb in and out of the window, especially since it takes me a few trips in and out to get everything I like to sit out there with. 4 animals, water, weed, snaccos, a book, etc.
I obviously need moisture mitigation, I can't leave it as an open screen door all summer long. Right now I've got window insulating plastic over the opening in a manner that allows me to peel it back to go in and out, but I'm hoping for something a bit sturdier. Would a screen door or storm door be a good option for an exterior or do I need something a bit stronger and more insulating for those winter months? Did I fuck myself over by not having a professional come out and install a door for me before kicking out the boarded up spot? Are there alternates to a $1200 exterior door with a tiny window? I want at least a half window, but it doesn't have to be anything ornate.

I'm not sure if it's my penis size but I want to try and make the pain less and need help doing it. If you need my measurements to Identify the issue: length is 7.4 inches and the thickness of 6 inches in circumference. Please help me out.

What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.

• I am looking to replace my console to play mostly heavily modded CDProjektRed and Bethesda games
• Specific games on my list are Skyrim, Fallout 4, Fallout 76, Cyberpunk 2077, Witcher 3

What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?

• $1300

When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

• I am planning to purchase a computer in July
• Question - Is it worth waiting until Black Friday in the US? My console still works so if it's really a good time for deals, I would consider it

What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

• I have a really nice keyboard, mouse, and a really old external display, but I will need everything else

Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?

• USA - I have access to two Microcenters - the one in Marietta, GA and the one in Fairfax, VA

If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.

• Keychron M1 Wired Gaming Mouse PMW3389
• Keychron K5 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard
• HP Pavilion 22cwa 21.5-Inch Full HD 1080p IPS LED Monitor, Tilt, VGA and HDMI (T4Q59AA)

Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?

• I don't know anything about overclocking so I think I will not do that.

Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)

• I don't know of anything particular

Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

• I do not care about aesthetics and would prefer to save money in that area if possible

Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?

• I do not have a current license for Windows so I will need one, but I don't have a preference

Extra info or particulars: N/A

Thank you in advance for your help! I'm a console game stepping into new territory - I've never built a computer from parts before so I really appreciate any guidance.

Hey guys, I'm cleaning out my storage and selling the extra PC parts/electronics I have. I'm local to Houston if you're interested in meeting locally. Here are the electronics/parts and their prices/descriptions:

• "MSI 4070 Ti Ventus 2X"
  • I always thought that the lack of a small dual slot card for higher end 40 series GPUs was disappointing. So I made my own "MSI 4070 Ti Ventus 2X" by heat sink swapping to get 3090 Ti level performance in a compact package. I'm letting this one go at cost for SFF enthusiasts who want to build in the Velka 5, Velka 7, Dan A4, ZS-A4S, etc. but don't have experience/aren't comfortable with GPU modding. Its priced a bit more than the MSRP because the donor GPU had to be sold at a loss as well as getting materials for the swap itself.
  • Condition: Used for thermal benchmarks to compare before/after results from custom swapping the 4070 Ti PCB into a Ventus 2X heatsink. Since the GPU is custom modded, it won't have a factory warranty and has slight cosmetic imperfections, but has been tested thoroughly and functions normally.
  • Price: $950 shipped, $900 local
• Intel® Compute Stick
  • Condition: Used, in great condition and comes with the original power brick. The compute stick has been wiped and has a fresh install of Windows 11 Home via the Tiny11 compiler to remove bloatware/telemetry as well as bypass Windows 11's RAM/TPM requirements. Its a decent computer for light browsing, but not much more.
    • Model: STK1AW32SC (CS125)
    • CPU: Intel® Atom™ x5-Z8300
    • RAM: 2GB DDR3L-1600
    • Storage: 32GB eMMC (Windows does take a good chunk of this, but the compute stick's storage can be expanded via a microSD card)
  • Price: $30 shipped or $23 local
• Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 4GB in Argon One m.2 SSD Case
  • Condition: Open box/used. The Raspberry Pi and CanaKit power supply was purchased used on eBay while all the accessories were purchased new but never used. The Pi was attached to the upper half of the Argon One case with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme as the TIM and the SATA SSD installed to the lower half of the case; however rubber feet hasn't been attached.
  • It was originally intended for a HomeKit project, but I never got around to doing it. You can use it for your own home automation/server project, as an emulator, etc. The set includes:
    • Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 4GB
    • Argon One m.2 SDD Case w/ internal 30mm fan, IR sensor, and two full sized HDMI ports
    • CanaKit power supply
    • ADATA 240GB m.2 2280 SATA SSD (SU650NS38)
  • Price: $120 shipped or $105 local
• Gigabyte AORUS RGB 3600MHz CL18 16GB (2x8GB) RAM
  • Condition: Used, but in excellent condition without any performance issues and is low profile for use in SFF/ITX cases.
    • SKU: GP-AR36C18S8K2HU416R
    • Memory Size: 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB)
    • Frequency: DDR4-3600 MHz
    • Timing: 18-19-19-39 (XMP 3600MHz)
    • Height: 39mm
  • Price: $90 shipped, $80 local
• 4 x 25 Foot, 18 AWG Power Cords
  • Condition: In brand new condition, haven't been used. They're great for PSUs, monitors, TVs, laptop power bricks, etc.
    • UL-listed with a female 3-pin IEC320C13 connector (see timestamp) to a male 3-prong grounded NEMA 5-15P plug (U.S. Type)
  • Price: $10 shipped each/$30 shipped for all or $5 local each/$20 local for all

Timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/XHbu7tW (Diet Coke not included)

I am wondering if people know their before and after in cm or inches. I am currently went from 4cm to 3cm in 4 months

Let's get this going, firstly, I finally upgraded my GT710 to a GTX 1630, I have a monitor on an HDMI cable on my graphics card and one in a VGA cable on my motherboard.
The new board worked fine for a couple of weeks, but recently I've been getting a lot of Hard disc usage when playing games, sometimes the game uses 100% of the hard disc, the game still runs, but it doesn't load textures and sound until the usage goes below 100%,
I don't know if this has anything to do with the graphics card at all, but another problem is that when I insist on keep playing the game regardless, my secondary monitor starts to show this jagged image, it stops eventually if I wait 2–5 minutes, but it happens again soon after, I can also force it to fix itself by removing the monitor from the pc, waiting about 5 seconds and pluging it again, but the problem happens again soon after
A new problem that started happening today was both monitors stopping showing image midgame, for about 2 seconds, I happen to notice that if this problem happens alongside the jagged image problem, the monitor comes back from darkness without the jagged image (even tho the jagged image returns soon after), but this problem can happen on his own, without the jagged image being present too. When the monitors start exhibiting image again, I notice these weird spikes on my GPU usage.
NOTES

1. I can't have the two monitors on my card bc my card only have DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.0b and DVI-D ports, and my secondary monitor only has an HDMI port
2. the problem is happening with more and more frequency as time goes by, it happens every time I play heavy games now
3. I've always had an onboard and an offboard monitor, and this never happened before
4. none of these problems happen on standby, just when playing
5. I don't know if this helps, but I changed my games from my disc F: to disc D: some time before I changed my card because disc F: was starting to make some weird sounds, the performance got better, and it worked fine until now, again i don't know if this relates or not

4 months, 11 days post op from tearing all 4 major ligaments and today i walked down my stairs in a perfectly normal manner, squated my body weight at 175 LBs 8 reps, and increased flexion my active is so close to matching my good leg and when i pull it back im like 2 fricken inches from heel to butt!! I seriously never imagined this type of progress with where i was at in the earlier stages but its one of the best feelings ive had since my injury realizing i could walk down the stairs like that was an unreal feeling!!

Hello dear Community,
since yesterday, my water cooling pump is no longer transporting water. I checked in the BIOS and briefly in Windows, 0 RPM.
Shortly after starting the computer, all RGBs start flashing red and the fan speed goes to 100%. CPU temp quickly rises to 100 degrees.
I also have the LCD upgrade kit installed, but it's been there for a while, so it shouldn't be related.
Error Symbol 1
This one comes approx. 15 sec after starting the PC
However, I also had this one before starting
Error Symbol 2
I have checked the USB header cable, SATA power supply, and the 20(?) pin on the Commander multiple times.
iCue does not show a Commander Core, although I am not quite sure if it was still displayed since I had the LCD installed.
Fans connected to the Commander Core are all running normally, including RGB, with a total of 5 (all Corsair, 3x AF120 (Slim) RGB, 2x AF140). I've been troubleshooting since yesterday... I'm grateful for any suggestion or idea.
All of this with the Diablo 4 launch around the corner :( instead of enjoying anticipation im Troubleshooting >10 hours total... + The joy of being unable to work from home office
PS: Is there a German phone support? I only found the USA / central number and ended up there once.
A ticket for the warranty case is already open (If a Corsair moderator here could help me Out: 2006190949. I would be super super happy to get it working properly again. Its in German though, i can also translate it. Included every info and receipt i could possibly find to make things smooth for you.)

I live in the center of a big city, under what is clearly a Bortle 8-9 sky. A few weeks ago, in order to have more chances of seeing DSOs, I drove out of the city, to what was supposed to be a Bortle 4 according to several light pollution maps. I have never been under a truly dark sky, so I don't know how it looks or what I should expect, but it seemed to me that the sky was quite more polluted than what the maps stated. The Milky Way was not visible at all, and through my 8 inch dobsonian, none of the galaxies around Virgo were visible. At 120x magnification, M13 was visible with averted vision, but barely visible with direct vision.
How accurate are light pollution maps? How does an actual Bortle 4 sky look like? What does a really dark sky look like to the naked eye?

https://www.audeze.com/products/lcd-microphone-cable
https://jdslabs.com/product/premium-headset-adapter-ps5/
So I need some help with the current issue I have going on. I have a JDS element 3 that I’m using with the ps5 cable for the mic. The jds is using optical to my pc. The 1/4 is plugged into the jds element while the 3.5 mm trrs cable is plugged into a splitter on the back of the mobo. I am getting a lot of static or noise when I use it this way, which I believe is caused by a ground loop issue.
What are my options for fixing this? I was thinking of having a custom made y cable that basically is the splitter from the gaming cable with one end being the 1/4 headphone that plugs in to the element and the other end being the 3.5 mm trs to the mic? Using a desktop mic isn’t an option for me.
Can I just get a ground loop isolator and keep my current setup to work?

Many have said she looks like a hammerhead shark. I thought the Little Mermaid trailers CG'd her face to make her look more animalistic/fish-like..but then I Googled her and realized the poor black girl actually looks like that. What makes people have such hideous features..is this genetic? I've never seen a White person with eyes 4 inches apart with a big wide nose like Halle (the black mermaid)..one of the many reasons Ariel should have been White, not black.

37 Black M4A Somerset County. Open to a few things
BODY PICS ON MY PROFILE
37 black man, with beard, 5’6, 225 chubby, 6 inches. I’m open to a few things. Mostly into women but obviously open to trans, , dl, sissy cd, chubby guys, guys who are open to bottom. The most experience i had with guys are jerking them and massaging them. I want to try more listed below. Please be clean and ideally I’d want to do these with one woman, trans, cd or guy but I’m open if we get tested.
1) Me give a massage with happy ending. 2) We jerk together. 3)Frottage 3)Me jerk them 4)Assjob or thigh job( It’s like titty fucking but dick between the cheeks or thighs. 5) Sex 6)Cuddle 7) Make Out 8) Oral 9) Raceplay

(Laptops will be linked at the bottom of the post)
Hi all, I'm starting my first year of a Software Engineering course this September and have been looking in to getting a solid laptop to carry about and use on the campus as well as personal use outside of classes, lectures, etc. I am looking to get something that I can use to take notes/study, write essays and program whilst also being able to use it outside of academics to stream shows and play some less spec-demanding games. I've mainly been looking in to laptops running Windows as this is the OS I am most comfortable with and to avoid running in to any programs I might not be able to run on MacOS. My budget is around £600 but I'm currently working and already have a decent amount of money saved up initial living costs/rent. I'm willing to extend this budget if any of you think it would be better value/worth splashing out for a good laptop that will last me a while.
I have mainly been looking at refurbished laptops both on Back Market and manufacturer sites to save some money. I came across a couple Surface Laptops with different specs (namely A having more RAM but B having more processing power) and a minimal price difference after I saw some people doing similar courses recommend them online (Laptops A and B).
I also did some more research of my own and asked some friends and came across a Dell laptop that had very similar and some better specs at a fraction of the cost, with the option of 16 and 32 GB of RAM only £10 more expensive. (Laptop C)
Besides these specific offers I also looked more in to getting a more up to date Surface Laptop from Microsoft's refurbished options on their website which seemed to all have generally higher specs for one or two hundred more pounds, but were mostly limited to only 8 GB RAM. On the pricier end, I also saw a recommendation for the Dell XSP 13 Plus calling it the "PC's answer to new Mac" which seemed to have all the specs I could ask for but came in at £1249 with the default specs including a TB of SSD storage but got closer to a slightly more reasonable £1149 if downgraded to a 512 GB SSD. I see they offer a non-Plus version of the that (as far as I can tell) isn't too much less powerful and could come with 16 GB RAM at £1099 instead.
Of course I am not married to any of the options above and would be more than happy to take any suggestions from anybody who knows more about laptops or what I may need as an aspiring software engineer than I do haha. I appreciate I've given a lot of information but I'll be extremely grateful if anyone could give me a hand. Thanks in advance everyone!
v Laptops v
Laptop A - https://www.backmarket.co.uk/en-gb/p/microsoft-surface-laptop-go-1943-124-inch-2020-core-i5-1035g1-16gb-ssd-256-gb-qwerty-english-uk/7ac93635-05ed-410a-b460-cda380f22b48#l=10
Laptop B - https://www.backmarket.co.uk/en-gb/p/microsoft-surface-laptop-go-2-124-inch-2020-core-i5-1135g7-8gb-ssd-256-gb-qwerty-english-uk/3e8080a6-0b96-4079-8a7c-208f02fc95f5#l=10
Laptop C - https://www.backmarket.co.uk/en-gb/p/dell-latitude-5400-14-inch-2019-core-i5-8265u-32gb-ssd-256-gb-qwerty-english-uk/3eb8cba0-14dd-40ab-be43-8229265dbfb0
Surface Laptop on Microsoft's site - https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/store/configure/Surface-Laptop-4-Certified-Refurbished/8ths923l11vg?crosssellid=&selectedColor=000000
Surface Laptop Go on Microsoft's site - https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/store/configure/Surface-Laptop-Go-Certified-Refurbished/922dw67m99q0?crosssellid=&selectedColor=85919B
Dell XPS 13 / Dell XPS 13 Plus - https://www.dell.com/en-uk/shop/laptops/xps-13-plus/spd/xps-13-9320-laptop

i'v been thinking to buy this monitor instead of the LG C2 because it has a Display port 1.4
and my GPU doesnt have HDMI 2.1
main use is playing one game and watching movies and youtube
i like that is it 16:9 4K and OLED
so what do you guys think?